U.S. Waterproofing | Why a Basement Leaks and How to Fix it…

Why a Base­ment Leaks and How to Fix it Permanently

Jul 9, 2014 • By Matthew Stock.

What’s the Best Way to Fix My Leaky Basement in Chicago?

A leak­ing base­ment is a very com­mon occur­rence in many homes. When a base­ment leaks it does not imply that the home was not built well or that some extra­or­di­nary cat­a­stro­phe has tak­en place; most like­ly it’s just a com­bi­na­tion of time and the forces of nature, although there are some man-made fac­tors that can cause or wors­en a leak­ing basement.

Any type of foun­da­tion can spring a leak and those built of poured con­crete are no less vul­ner­a­ble than one made of mason­ry – they just leak dif­fer­ent­ly. Of course, any­thing that can be said about leaks in a base­ment can also apply to a crawl space which, after all, is noth­ing more than a short base­ment albeit one that is like­ly to have a dirt floor.

In exam­in­ing why a base­ment leaks, it’s impor­tant to know that there are caus­es of leaks and there are sources of leaks. The first are usu­al­ly nat­ur­al occur­rences that take place out­side the base­ment and the sec­ond are gen­er­al­ly flaws or dis­rup­tions in the foundation’s struc­ture. The two must com­bine to make the base­ment leak and any approach to repair­ing the leak must take both into account.

Caus­es of Base­ment Leaks

By far the most com­mon cause of base­ment leaks is pres­sure cre­at­ed by water in the soil sur­round­ing the foun­da­tion that occurs in two forms.

Hydro­sta­t­ic Pres­sure – Although it might not always seem like it, there is water in the ground every­where. Even in dry areas like the Amer­i­can South­west water can still be found under­ground although at a much low­er lev­el than else­where. The lev­el at which this ground water exists is called the water table” and its loca­tion varies wide­ly. One fac­tor that influ­ences the height of the water table is prox­im­i­ty to bod­ies of water so that areas around the Great Lakes, for exam­ple, will have high­er water tables than Kansas or South Dakota.

When heavy or per­sis­tent rain or snowmelt occurs, water is absorbed by soil clos­er to the sur­face and, when the sur­face soil becomes sat­u­rat­ed, the storm water that isn’t absorbed caus­es the water table to rise. When the water table ris­es under a foun­da­tion it cre­ates hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure against the foun­da­tion from below that can force water into the base­ment and cre­ate leaks opportunistically.

Lat­er­al Pres­sure – The soil that sur­rounds a foun­da­tion between the foot­ings and the sur­face can also absorb water although under nor­mal weath­er con­di­tions this soil should drain. Cer­tain types of soils, such as sand and loam, drain fair­ly quick­ly and don’t absorb as much water. Clay soil, such as is com­mon in the Chica­go area, doesn’t drain as well and tends to absorb water and expand.

his sit­u­a­tion is wors­ened by the fact that a 10-foot wide area around the perime­ter of the house is less com­pact­ed than oth­er soil because it was the site of the orig­i­nal foun­da­tion exca­va­tion that was lat­er back­filled. This loos­er soil tends to be more absorbent and expansive.

Also, this area around the home is often inun­dat­ed with rain water when the home’s gut­ters are clogged or blocked or when down­spouts are not extend­ed and are dis­charg­ing large vol­umes of water right next to the foundation.

When this soil expands, it cre­ates lat­er­al, or side­ways, pres­sure against the foun­da­tion that can cause foun­da­tion dam­age and cre­ate leaks in the basement.

Win­dow WellsWin­dow wells can be anoth­er cause of seep­age that has noth­ing to do with ground water pres­sure. Win­dow wells allow light and air to enter the base­ment through the win­dow but can accu­mu­late water dur­ing a heavy rain if the drain is either clogged or miss­ing. When the win­dow well fills with water, from either a clogged or miss­ing drain or sep­a­rat­ed win­dow well lin­er, the water can seep in around a poor­ly installed win­dow or even cre­ate enough pres­sure to push the win­dow in.

Those are the caus­es of base­ment leaks but what are the sources and how do you fix them permanently?

Sources of Base­ment Leaks and Fix­ing Them Permanently

There are sev­er­al sources of base­ment leaks, most of which are minute open­ings in base­ment walls or floor.

Floor Cracks – Base­ment floors are thin lay­ers of poured con­crete, typ­i­cal­ly 24 inch­es in depth, that have no struc­tur­al role in the home’s foun­da­tion. They are there to pro­vide a clean, sol­id base.
The same hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure that forces water into the base­ment also press­es upward on the base­ment floor and can cause it to crack. These cracks will allow water to seep into the base­ment when the water table rises.

Cove Joint — When a foun­da­tion is built the first thing to be con­struct­ed is a sys­tem of foot­ings, a wide slab of con­crete that describes the perime­ter of the foun­da­tion. The foun­da­tion wall is either poured or built with mason­ry on top of the foot­ings. In either case, there is a minute open­ing where the wall meets the foot­ing. The same is true of where the poured con­crete floor meets the wall. This open­ing, called the cove joint, allows water to be forced into the base­ment by hydro­sta­t­ic pressure.

To repair both floor cracks and cove seep­age, the secret is to alle­vi­ate the hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure by giv­ing ground water some­where else to go. This is accom­plished by installing inte­ri­or drain tile, a sys­tem of per­fo­rat­ed pipe installed under the base­ment floor.

Inte­ri­or drain tile is embed­ded in washed grav­el to cre­ate bet­ter drainage and is wrapped in a sock” of fil­tra­tion fab­ric to keep it clean and flow­ing. It takes in ground water through its per­fo­ra­tions and car­ries it to a sump basin where the sump pump dis­charges it from the base­ment. When installed prop­er­ly, inte­ri­or drain tile requires no maintenance.

Poured Con­crete Wall Cracks – The most com­mon source of a base­ment leak is a non-struc­tur­al crack in a poured con­crete base­ment wall. These cracks can be caused by either the lat­er­al pres­sure described ear­li­er or by minor set­tling or drop­ping of the foundation.

The best way to repair a wall crack per­ma­nent­ly is to inject it from the inte­ri­or with expand­ing polyurethane. The polyurethane fills and seals the crack out to the soil and stays flex­i­ble when cured to pre­vent minor foun­da­tion move­ment from re-open­ing the crack.

If the crack is inac­ces­si­ble from the inte­ri­or it can be repaired out­side by fill­ing a hole at the site of the crack with sodi­um ben­tonite clay. The clay forms a pli­able yet per­ma­nent bar­ri­er on the pos­i­tive side” of the foun­da­tion and keeps water out of the basement.

Mor­tar Joints – Mason­ry foun­da­tion walls are strong and capa­ble of sup­port­ing even large struc­tures but their weak point for seep­age is the many feet of mor­tar joints that hold the con­crete blocks, stone or brick togeth­er. Even minor foun­da­tion wall move­ment can cause cracks in mor­tar joints and these cracks are often a source of seepage.

Porous con­crete or mason­ry – Poured con­crete is usu­al­ly not porous enough to admit water but minor flaws in the pour­ing process, such as insuf­fi­cient mix­ing, can cre­ate porous spots. These spots will, over time, allow seep­age through the wall.

Cer­tain mason­ry mate­ri­als, espe­cial­ly con­crete block or bricks, are porous by nature and can allow seep­age through the wall. In the case of con­crete block, the pres­ence of large cav­i­ties that hold water can exac­er­bate the seepage.

Seep­age over the top of foun­da­tion walls – There is often a small gap between the top of a foun­da­tion wall and the sill plate of the above­ground struc­ture. When neg­a­tive” grad­ing or improp­er­ly sloped struc­tures such as decks and patios cause rain water to run toward the house, it can enter the base­ment through this opening.

The way to repair seep­age per­ma­nent­ly from mor­tar joints, porous walls or over the top of a wall is to install an exte­ri­or water­proof­ing mem­brane. The affect­ed wall is exca­vat­ed and cleaned before a tech­ni­cian applies a thick coat­ing of asphalt-mod­i­fied polyurethane to the wall with a trow­el. The mate­r­i­al cures to form a water­proof bar­ri­er and can be cov­ered with insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al and/​or heavy-duty drainage board to chan­nel water down the wall.

Exte­ri­or water­proof­ing mem­branes are often aug­ment­ed by installing exte­ri­or drain tile to car­ry large amounts of ground water away from the foun­da­tion to a sump pump.

Repair­ing win­dow wells – If a win­dow well does not have a drain the sim­ple solu­tion is to install one that leads to drain tile, a dry well or out to day­light. If an exist­ing drain is clogged it can be cleaned out or replaced if nec­es­sary. In either event, a fit­ted win­dow well cov­er should be installed, not so much to keep out rain but to exclude lawn clip­pings, leaves and oth­er debris that can cause the drain to clog.

If the win­dow well lin­er has sep­a­rat­ed from the foun­da­tion wall, it can be reat­tached in some cas­es but will like­ly need to be replaced in order to keep soil and ground water from enter­ing the well.

There are numer­ous caus­es and sources of base­ment seep­age and a num­ber of ways to repair them per­ma­nent­ly. One thing they have in com­mon is that it takes a trained and expe­ri­enced base­ment water­proof­ing con­trac­tor to diag­nose and fix them. At U.S. Water­proof­ing, we have been find­ing and fix­ing base­ment seep­age prob­lems for more than 57 years and we have more than 300,000 sat­is­fied cus­tomers to show for it. Why not ask for our free advice when your base­ment leaks?

Tags: why basement leaks, fix basement permanently

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