U.S. Waterproofing | Should I Buy a Home with a Wet Basement?

Should I Buy a Home with a Wet Basement?

Aug 7, 2014 • By Matthew Stock.

Buying Home

Buy­ing a home, espe­cial­ly for the first time, is a huge undertaking. 

A bad choice or missed sign of trou­ble can result in cost­ly repairs or finan­cial loss­es at resale so home­buy­ers are well-advised to be painstak­ing in their search. There are lots of red flags” that home­buy­ers are urged to heed along with the usu­al research on schools, prop­er­ty tax­es and com­pa­ra­ble pricing.

One thing that typ­i­cal­ly turns a poten­tial buy­er off to a home is any sign of a wet base­ment. Under­stand­ably, poten­tial buy­ers who may not be famil­iar with the caus­es of and cures for a wet base­ment are like­ly to see it as a huge prob­lem and move on to the next listing.

Of course, a wet base­ment may be a sign that major repair is required to make the base­ment water­proof or to fix a dam­aged foun­da­tion but it is equal­ly true that the prob­lem could be fixed by a quick, sim­ple crack repair that could be done per­ma­nent­ly for a few hun­dred dollars.

So, how’s a poten­tial home­buy­er to know the dif­fer­ence? It helps to under­stand why and how a base­ment leaks.

What Caus­es a Wet Basement?

Water that ends up in the base­ment starts out in the soil around the foun­da­tion. It is rare that falling rain or melt­ing snow flows direct­ly into a base­ment before being absorbed by the soil and some kind of exter­nal pres­sure is need­ed to force the water in through oppor­tunis­tic openings.

Water is con­tained in the soil that sur­rounds the foun­da­tion to a degree that depends on the type of soil found in the area. For exam­ple, sandy soil, such as that found in north­west Indi­ana, drains very quick­ly and absorbs very lit­tle water. Clay soil, com­mon in the Chica­go area, is very absorbent and holds a great deal of water.

The area imme­di­ate­ly around a home’s foun­da­tion is par­tic­u­lar­ly sus­cep­ti­ble to absorb­ing water because it con­tains soil that was dis­turbed dur­ing the orig­i­nal exca­va­tion to build the foun­da­tion. This back­filled soil is less com­pact­ed than the undis­turbed soil around it and has more space sur­round­ing soil par­ti­cles to con­tain water.

Water is also con­tained in soil below the foun­da­tion. This water occurs near­ly every­where, some­times very deep in the ground in more arid areas, and is referred to as ground water. The lev­el to which this water ris­es in the soil is called the water table,” which is a rel­a­tive­ly sta­t­ic mea­sure­ment but one that can change for the short term after heavy rain­fall or snowmelt.

When the soil sur­round­ing the foun­da­tion absorbs water it expands and cre­ates pres­sure against the foun­da­tion walls. This lat­er­al pres­sure can force water into the base­ment and can also cause struc­tur­al dam­age to the foundation.

Sim­i­lar­ly, when the water table ris­es, pres­sure is cre­at­ed below the foun­da­tion, called hydro­sta­t­ic” pres­sure. Hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure can also force water into the base­ment and can cre­ate cracks in rel­a­tive­ly thin con­crete base­ment floors.

But, how does the water get in?

Sources of Base­ment Seepage

No mat­ter how much water there is out­side the base­ment there has to be an open­ing of some kind for it to get into the basement.

These open­ings, as men­tioned ear­li­er, can be caused by pres­sure against base­ment walls or floors, but can also be caused by foun­da­tion set­tle­ment and small errors dur­ing con­struc­tion, even by the nature of home­build­ing itself.

The most com­mon type of res­i­den­tial foun­da­tion is one con­struct­ed of poured con­crete and the most com­mon source of seep­age in such a foun­da­tion is a non-struc­tur­al crack in the wall. These cracks can be caused by lat­er­al pres­sure or by the foun­da­tion drop­ping or set­tling. The cracks are nar­row, gen­er­al­ly less than 1÷8”, and occur ran­dom­ly in walls, some­times ema­nat­ing from open­ings like win­dows or util­i­ty penetrations.

Cracks can also occur in mason­ry foun­da­tions, whether built of con­crete block, stone or brick. Cracks in these foun­da­tions occur in the mor­tar joints between mason­ry units and will usu­al­ly be found in a stairstep” pattern.

Anoth­er very com­mon source of seep­age is through what is called the cove joint.” When a foun­da­tion is built, the first step after exca­va­tion is to build the foot­ings, a wide pad of poured con­crete that describes the perime­ter of the foun­da­tion and serves to cre­ate a sta­ble base and spread the load of the house more evenly.

When the foun­da­tion wall, either con­crete or mason­ry, is built on top of the foot­ings, there remains a tiny gap between the two struc­tures. After the wall is fin­ished, the base­ment floor is poured to sit on top of the inner edge of the foot­ings and a small gap remains there too, between the floor and wall. This is the cove joint and hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure can force water into the base­ment through it.

The floor cracks caused by hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure can also seep water and, because base­ment floors play no struc­tur­al role in the foun­da­tion and are typ­i­cal­ly thin, these cracks are very common.

Less com­mon are porous spots in poured con­crete, caused by a dry spot” in the con­crete mix or insuf­fi­cient vibra­tion to set­tle it when fresh­ly poured. Water can seep through these spots, as it can through con­crete block because they are con­sid­er­ably more porous than poured concrete.

Seep­age can also occur around poor­ly fit­ted base­ment win­dows, improp­er­ly sealed util­i­ties such as plumb­ing, elec­tri­cal con­duits, HVAC con­nec­tions and sew­er lines.

Final­ly, when exte­ri­or con­struc­tion, such as a deck or patio is improp­er­ly pitched to cause water to drain back toward the house, water can enter the base­ment over the top of the foun­da­tion wall, between the con­crete or mason­ry and the wood­en sill plate that is the base of the above­ground construction.

Lots of places where water can enter the base­ment – can they all be fixed?

Fix­ing a Wet Basement

For each of the ways that water can enter a base­ment there is at least one method of per­ma­nent repair.

For those cracks in a poured con­crete foun­da­tion wall, the best repair is to inject them from inside with expand­ing polyurethane to fill and seal the crack. The polyurethane mate­r­i­al remains flex­i­ble when it cures to pre­vent re-crack­ing from minor foun­da­tion move­ment and the repair can be com­plet­ed in less than one day.

If the crack is inac­ces­si­ble from the inside it can be repaired on the exte­ri­or by cre­at­ing a pli­able, per­ma­nent bar­ri­er against the exte­ri­or wall with sodi­um ben­tonite clay. This repair is invis­i­ble once com­plet­ed and can also be done in less than a day.

Injec­tion is not appro­pri­ate for cracks in a mason­ry foun­da­tion, how­ev­er. Seep­age from these cracks can be man­aged on the inte­ri­or of the base­ment (more on that lat­er) or repaired by seal­ing the out­side of the wall with an exte­ri­or water­proof­ing membrane.

After exca­vat­ing the affect­ed wall or walls, a thick coat­ing of asphalt-mod­i­fied polyurethane mate­r­i­al is trow­eled onto the wall to form the mem­brane, which can be cov­ered with insu­lat­ing mate­r­i­al and/​or plas­tic drainage board to chan­nel water downward.

An exte­ri­or water­proof­ing mem­brane also pre­vents seep­age through porous poured con­crete or con­crete blocks and water enter­ing the base­ment over the top of the foun­da­tion wall. It’s a pret­ty major repair and may require sev­er­al days to com­plete, depend­ing on how much of the foun­da­tion is affected.
Seep­age caused by hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure, whether through the cove joint or cracks in the base­ment floor, requires a method of alle­vi­at­ing the pres­sure and pro­vid­ing an alter­nate route for the water that caus­es it. This is done by installing inte­ri­or drain tile.

Inte­ri­or drain tile is a sys­tem of per­fo­rat­ed plas­tic pipe that is embed­ded in washed grav­el under the base­ment floor next to the foot­ings. The water that would oth­er­wise be forced through the cracks or cove joint is instead forced into the pipe, which car­ries it off to a sump pump for dis­charge from the base­ment. Inte­ri­or drain tile is maintenance-free.

Inte­ri­or drain tile can also be used to man­age seep­age through the wall, usu­al­ly in com­pa­ny with a vapor bar­ri­er cov­er­ing the wall. No mat­ter how it is used, it is a sur­pris­ing­ly con­ve­nient instal­la­tion and can typ­i­cal­ly be done in a fair­ly short time.

Drain tile can be installed on the exte­ri­or of the foun­da­tion to alle­vi­ate lat­er­al pres­sure. It is often installed when an exte­ri­or water­proof­ing mem­brane is used, espe­cial­ly when ground water is high.

So, should you buy a home with a wet base­ment? It depends on the appeal of the home, the price and lots of oth­er fac­tors but at least you can make your deci­sion know­ing what caus­es the water prob­lem and how it can be fixed. A wet base­ment doesn’t have to be a deal-breaker.

If you decide to buy the home, you’ll need the advice and assis­tance of a full-ser­vice base­ment water­proof­ing con­trac­tor that can accu­rate­ly diag­nose the source of the prob­lem and rec­om­mend a per­ma­nent, cost-effec­tive repair. At U.S Water­proof­ing, we’ve res­cued the dreams of many a home­buy­er in our 57 years in busi­ness and we proud­ly count more than 300,000 sat­is­fied cus­tomers who no longer have to wor­ry about wet base­ments thanks to us. Why not ask for our free advice?

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