U.S. Waterproofing | 3 Ways to Waterproof a Finished Basement

3 Ways to Water­proof a Fin­ished Basement

Jun 7, 2014 • By Matthew Stock.

Finished Basement Water Problems: What to Do First

A fin­ished base­ment is a great way to increase liv­ing space in the home with­out adding on. The base­ment can be turned into addi­tion­al bed­rooms, hob­by or home office space, fam­i­ly room, play­room – the pos­si­bil­i­ties are almost endless.

Great as it may be, fin­ished base­ment space comes at a cost regard­less of whether the base­ment remod­el is done by a con­trac­tor or if it’s a DIY project. Either way it rep­re­sents a sig­nif­i­cant invest­ment by the home­own­er and it’s the kind of job that should be done only once.

One thing that can quick­ly ruin even the best base­ment remod­el is water seep­ing into the base­ment that can destroy dry­wall and car­pets, dam­age fur­nish­ings and belong­ings and help cre­ate a breed­ing ground for mold.

Of course, the best rec­om­men­da­tion to avoid this fate is to water­proof the base­ment before the fin­ish­ing work is done but for those who didn’t get that advice or pur­chased a home with a base­ment already fin­ished, it is still pos­si­ble to water­proof a fin­ished base­ment with­out destroy­ing it.

3 Meth­ods of Water­proof­ing a Fin­ished Basement

It stands to rea­son that any water­proof­ing work must be done on the exte­ri­or of the base­ment in order to avoid dis­turb­ing the inte­ri­or. These three meth­ods are all out­door work and can be done at any time of year except for winter.

1. Water Man­age­ment – One of the eas­i­est ways to water­proof a fin­ished base­ment (or any base­ment for that mat­ter) is to keep water away from the foun­da­tion in the first place. The first step in this process is one that any home­own­er can do for him- or her­self, keep­ing rain gut­ters clean and free of debris. A one-inch rain­fall will dump 600 gal­lons of water on each 1000 square feet of roof and, if all that water can­not be col­lect­ed by rain gut­ters that are full of leaves and oth­er mate­ri­als, all that water will sheet over the edge of the roof and soak into the soil right next to the foundation.

Of course, if even the clean­est gut­ters flow into down­spouts that are mere­ly a ver­ti­cal pipe that ends at the cor­ner of the house, that same water is being dumped right next to the foun­da­tion except that it is being con­cen­trat­ed at four cor­ners of the house. This water will end up in the fin­ished base­ment unless the down­spouts are extend­ed at least ten feet away from the house. Hav­ing a pro­fes­sion­al install under­ground down­spout exten­sions that ter­mi­nate in a bub­bler pot or dry well will ensure that the exten­sions stay in place and won’t have to be removed for lawn care or landscaping.

2. Exte­ri­or Crack Repair – Foun­da­tions made of poured con­crete are the most com­mon in the Mid­west and the most com­mon source of water in poured con­crete base­ments is a non-struc­tur­al crack in a base­ment wall. In an unfin­ished base­ment, such a crack would be repaired by ure­thane injec­tion from the inte­ri­or but a fin­ished base­ment requires an exte­ri­or repair with sodi­um ben­tonite clay.

A small-diam­e­ter hole is dug next to the foun­da­tion at the site of the crack and extend­ed down to the foot­ings. The hole is filled with the gran­u­lar clay, which then absorbs water from the sur­round­ing soil to become plas­tic and cre­ate a per­ma­nent exte­ri­or water bar­ri­er. When the soil is back­filled the repair is invisible.

3. Exte­ri­or Water­proof­ing Mem­brane – Anoth­er com­mon source of seep­age in poured con­crete base­ments is water com­ing in over the top of the foun­da­tion wall or through areas of porous con­crete. In a mason­ry wall, such as con­crete block or brick, seep­age often occurs through dete­ri­o­rat­ed mor­tar joints or porous masonry.

These sources of seep­age can be repaired by installing an exte­ri­or water­proof­ing mem­brane, a thick coat­ing of asphalt-mod­i­fied polyurethane that is trow­eled onto the exte­ri­or wall after it has been exca­vat­ed to form a per­ma­nent water bar­ri­er on the pos­i­tive” side of the foun­da­tion. If ground water is espe­cial­ly high the mem­brane can be com­ple­ment­ed by installing exte­ri­or drain tile and adding heavy-duty drainage board to pro­tect the mem­brane and chan­nel water down to the drain tile.

No mat­ter which method is best, a home­own­er who must water­proof a fin­ished base­ment will need the ser­vices of an expe­ri­enced base­ment water­proof­ing con­trac­tor. At U.S. Water­proof­ing, we got our start doing exte­ri­or water­proof­ing 57 years ago and have become one of the country’s largest full-ser­vice base­ment water­proof­ing com­pa­nies by pro­vid­ing excel­lent ser­vice at a fair price to more than 300,000 sat­is­fied cus­tomers. Why not ask for our free advice?

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