U.S. Waterproofing | How to Repair Foundation Damage

How to Repair Foun­da­tion Damage

Jul 30, 2014 • By Matthew Stock.

Cracked Foundation Wall

Most home­own­ers don’t spend a lot of time think­ing about their home’s foun­da­tions. They’re below ground and don’t require paint­ing or clean­ing or lubri­ca­tion – they just sit there, day after day, and hold up the house.

For the most part, this is OK. Bar­ring extreme cir­cum­stances of weath­er and/​or soil move­ment, a foun­da­tion will hold up indef­i­nite­ly with­out main­te­nance or repair and won’t require much attention.

But, when things go wrong with a foun­da­tion they need to be attend­ed to right away because, at best, they will cause water seep­age in the base­ment and, at worst, can jeop­ar­dize the sta­bil­i­ty of the entire home.

What is the Foun­da­tion, Anyway?

To under­stand how to repair foun­da­tion dam­age it helps to under­stand how the foun­da­tion is con­struct­ed.

To begin, an exca­va­tor digs a hole the depth of the foun­da­tion and about 10 feet larg­er around the perime­ter. The extra space around the out­side is to allow work­ing room while the foun­da­tion is being built.

The next step is to install the foun­da­tion foot­ing, which is a broad pad of poured con­crete that spreads the load of the foun­da­tion walls (and above­ground struc­ture) over a wider area. A typ­i­cal foot­ing may be 16 inch­es wide and eight inch­es thick but size will vary depend­ing in the size and con­struc­tion mate­ri­als of the house and the load-bear­ing char­ac­ter­is­tics of the soil. The foot­ing describes the perime­ter of the foundation.

What hap­pens next depends on the type of foun­da­tion walls to be built. Poured con­crete walls are the most com­mon and that process starts with the con­struc­tion of forms on top of the foot­ings. Once the forms are in place, rein­forc­ing bars are insert­ed and the con­crete is poured into the forms. Bolts and oth­er hard­ware may be insert­ed into the wet con­crete at the top of the wall to facil­i­tate attach­ment of a sill plate for above­ground construction.

When a mason­ry foun­da­tion is to be built, masons will lay the first course of con­crete block (or stone or brick) direct­ly on the foot­ing and the walls will be built from there. Mor­tar will be used to hold the mason­ry units togeth­er in a run­ning bond pattern.

Once all the con­crete or mor­tar has cured, the exca­va­tion around the foun­da­tion will be back-filled with soil and con­struc­tion of the above­ground struc­ture will begin.

How Does Foun­da­tion Dam­age Occur?

Prop­er­ly locat­ed and con­struct­ed, the foun­da­tion will sit on undis­turbed soil that is sol­id enough to bear the load of the home. One of the caus­es of foun­da­tion dam­age is a change in this soil that caus­es its abil­i­ty to hold the foun­da­tion sta­ble to diminish.

For exam­ple, the soil below the foun­da­tion con­tains water; maybe a lit­tle, maybe a lot. Dur­ing times of nor­mal weath­er, this water remains in the soil and the soil is sta­ble. Dur­ing times of dry weath­er or drought, such as occurred in the Mid­west in 2012, the roots of trees and large plants will extend more deeply into the soil than nor­mal in search of water and can draw all the mois­ture out of the soil under the foundation.

When the soil los­es its mois­ture the soil par­ti­cles are pushed clos­er togeth­er and the soil is com­pact­ed, which can cause the foun­da­tion it once sup­port­ed to drop or sink. This down­ward move­ment can cause cracks in and inward rota­tion of foun­da­tion walls, sep­a­ra­tion from the house above and dam­age to the above­ground struc­ture includ­ing cracks, stuck doors and win­dows and sep­a­ra­tion of chim­neys and oth­er elements.

The oth­er com­mon cause of foun­da­tion dam­age also involves soil and water but in excess. When soil absorbs water, it expands to a degree deter­mined by the soil type. For instance, with sandy soil as found around the low­er shores of Lake Michi­gan in north­west Indi­ana, there is very lit­tle absorp­tion as water tends to drain between the sandy par­ti­cles so there is lit­tle to no expan­sion. In the clay soil com­mon­ly found in the Chica­go area, how­ev­er, there is very poor drainage so the soil absorbs quite a lot of water and expands accordingly.

This expan­sion cre­ates pres­sure in the soil. One vari­ety, cre­at­ed when increased absorp­tion caus­es a rise in the water table, is called hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure and occurs below the foun­da­tion. This pres­sure can cause base­ment floors to crack and will force water into a base­ment but gen­er­al­ly does not cause dam­age to the foundation.

The pres­sure cre­at­ed by over­sat­u­rat­ed soil around the foun­da­tion is called lat­er­al pres­sure because of the force it exerts against foun­da­tion walls. Because this soil con­sists of the back­fill that took place dur­ing con­struc­tion it is less com­pact­ed than the sur­round­ing undis­turbed soil and is more like­ly to absorb water and expand. The lat­er­al pres­sure cre­at­ed can cause severe crack­ing in foun­da­tion walls that can lead to inward move­ment of the wall and sep­a­ra­tion from the above­ground structure.

That’s how it breaks; now, how do you fix it?

How to Repair Foun­da­tion Damage

If the foun­da­tion dam­age is non-struc­tur­al, repair­ing it is a job for a base­ment water­proof­ing professional.

Those cracks in the base­ment floor caused by hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure are going to seep water when­ev­er heavy rain caus­es the water table to rise so they are repaired by alle­vi­at­ing the hydro­sta­t­ic pres­sure and giv­ing the water some­where else to go. This is done by installing inte­ri­or drain tile which will ease the pres­sure and car­ry the water to a sump pump for discharge.

Minor wall cracks (those that are nar­row­er than 1/8”) will also seep water into the base­ment. They can be repaired by inject­ing them with expand­ing polyurethane from inside the base­ment. The polyurethane will fill and seal the crack all the way to the out­side soil and will remain flex­i­ble to pre­vent re-crack­ing from minor foun­da­tion movement.

Struc­tur­al cracks are much more dan­ger­ous to the sta­bil­i­ty of the home and require the ser­vices of a struc­tur­al foun­da­tion repair specialist.

When lat­er­al pres­sure from over­sat­u­rat­ed soil or foun­da­tion set­tle­ment has caused a foun­da­tion wall to move inward, referred to as rota­tion or deflec­tion, the cracks it caus­es will show up on the wall in a def­i­nite pat­tern. In a poured con­crete wall, there will usu­al­ly be a ver­ti­cal crack in the mid­dle of the wall accom­pa­nied by two angled cracks across the upper cor­ners. Invis­i­ble from the inside will be two more ver­ti­cal cracks at the out­side cor­ners where the wall has begun to sep­a­rate from the adja­cent ones.

In a mason­ry wall, cracks will pret­ty much always fol­low the lines of mor­tar joints, cre­at­ing a stairstep pat­tern, and will lead to a bowed or bulging area in the mid­dle of the wall.

The sever­i­ty of the wall’s move­ment will deter­mine how the wall is to be repaired. If the deflec­tion has been rel­a­tive­ly minor — less than two inch­es — the wall can be sta­bi­lized with car­bon fiber. An engi­neer will deter­mine the num­ber and place­ment of car­bon fiber strips to sta­bi­lize the wall and they will be installed by a foun­da­tion repair expert.

The installer will first grind the wall smooth to improve the adhe­sion of the strip, which is then affixed to the wall with indus­tri­al-strength epoxy and rolled down to improve the bond. A piece of steel angle iron is bolt­ed to the floor joist above the strip to help pre­vent fur­ther move­ment and the wall is ful­ly stabilized.

If the rota­tion of the wall has exceed­ed two inch­es, then steel must be used to sta­bi­lize the wall. Unlike the old four-to-six inch steel I‑beam, the mod­ern stan­dard for foun­da­tion repair is using low pro­file steel chan­nels that are secured to the foot­ing and floor joist to lock the wall in place per­ma­nent­ly while cre­at­ing only a low-pro­file repair that can be cov­ered by a 2×4 stud wall.

When the foun­da­tion has dropped or sunk because of soil des­ic­ca­tion or anoth­er rea­son, an entire­ly dif­fer­ent type of repair is need­ed that will raise the foun­da­tion (and above­ground struc­ture) back to lev­el and secure it there permanently.

Although there are oth­er, old­er meth­ods, a foun­da­tion repair con­trac­tor that is up-to-date on tech­nol­o­gy will use steel hydraulic push piers to raise and sta­bi­lize a foun­da­tion. Again, an engi­neer will deter­mine the num­ber and place­ment of piers to ensure a per­ma­nent, wor­ry-free repair.

The instal­la­tion begins by dig­ging a small hole down to the foot­ings at the site of each pier. The foot­ing is notched, a steel brack­et is per­ma­nent­ly attached and a hydraulic ram is mount­ed on it. The ram is then used to dri­ve sec­tions of steel col­umn into the earth until it reach­es a load-bear­ing stratum.
After the piers have been dri­ven, a hydraulic pump is attached to all of them and is used to slow­ly raise the home back to its orig­i­nal posi­tion. Once lev­el has been reached, the piers and brack­ets are bolt­ed togeth­er and the hydraulic sys­tem is removed, leav­ing the house sta­bi­lized by the steel col­umn supports.

When the holes have been back­filled, the repair is invisible.

If a home­own­er begins to see signs of foun­da­tion dam­age, whether they are wall cracks, stuck win­dows and doors, or a sep­a­rat­ed chim­ney, he or she is going to need help from a struc­tur­al foun­da­tion con­trac­tor, a base­ment water­proof­ing expert or both. At U.S. Water­proof­ing, our foun­da­tion repair team uses the lat­est tech­nol­o­gy and sound engi­neer­ing data to per­ma­nent­ly sta­bi­lize foun­da­tions and our base­ment water­proof­ing experts have more than 57 years of expe­ri­ence in repair­ing seep­age caused by foun­da­tion issues. Why not ask for our free advice when you sus­pect a prob­lem with your foundation?

Tags: repair foundation damage, foundation damage repair

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